As soon as we arrived, we got our rental car and started our first day of marathon driving, bypassing Reykjavik, heading up to the Snaefelssness Peninsula. Just north of Reykjavik, we started to see beautiful horses in brilliant green pastures everywhere. The advantage of planning your own trip is you can stop wherever there's something cool to see. This is especially great for a photographer like me.
As you can see, there are quite a few amazing breeds of Icelandic horses. Each color combination here is a different breed. Icelandic horses have been isolated from other horses for about a thousand years now. The Norse brought over horses sometime in the late 800's or early 900's. Soon after, the Icelandic government banned the import of other types of horses. They're somewhat smaller than horses Americans are used to, but plenty large and strong enough to ride long distances on difficult terrain.
We drove all the way to the end of the Snaefellsness Peninsula to see the cliffs and the ocean there. On the way, we saw a few people walking beside a stream leading out of a mountainside, so we decided to check it out. A short hike up a hill led into a dark and narrow grotto that the stream had cut into the cliff. Every surface was covered in thick, rich, green moss. Apparently, the wet and cold environment of Iceland is perfect for this moss, because you find it in many far-flung regions of the island.
The Arnarstapi Cliffs at the western end of the peninsula were our excuse to go exploring in this general direction. We spent a little over an hour walking on (and off) the paths around the area. When we arrived there was a group of a couple hundred Chinese tourists all wearing bright red parkas included with their tour. In this first photo, the water is rushing out from this inlet bordered by a thick layer of dark brown seaweed clinging to the rocks at the waterline. The rock is crystallized basalt, which gives it the appearance of being man-made, like giant Lego rocks. Rock like this occurs all over Iceland, and comes from magma pushing up through a glacier, and consequently being cooled extremely rapidly.
Those winds we'd encountered at the airport that morning, and that were blowing waterfalls backwards up cliffs, were still whipping up the sea - sending this wave all the way to the top of this forty foot cliff.
Just a little while later, we got hit by a sudden, powerful hailstorm, with fifty mile per hour winds. Luckily, we just happened to be near our car, so we were able to use if for shelter. Others weren't so lucky. It only lasted five minutes, but left the roads covered in a rapidly melting layer of white hail slush.
Our destination that night was an isolated converted farm house down 40 miles of a packed gravel road, on the northern side of the peninsula, called the Drangar Country Guesthouse. In order to get there, we had to cross over to the northern side of the peninsula. Once on the northern side, we walked on a black sand beach and watched the wavetops being blown backwards by those powerful southerly winds.
On the way there, we spotted a couple more horses at the outlet of an incredibly beautiful valley, with giant waterfalls at its head, and sunlight illuminating the mountains through a gap in the dark clouds. While I was taking photos of these two horses, we noticed a small herd of horses in the distance, and they were running down from the hills right toward us. Within a minute they had arrived and run in a small circle right up to the fence and stopped there. They were bored and curious and we were their entertainment.
Here's a video Jennifer took while I was busy trying to take the photo above.
After a great breakfast at the guesthouse, we headed northwest toward the Dynjandi waterfall in the remote region few visitors get to known as the Westfjords. One of the great pleasures of traveling across Iceland is seeing one beautiful, unspoiled fjord after another, even if it's in cloudy or rainy weather.
That day, we could usually see bright sunlight, dark clouds, and rain all at the same time. This photo was taken from the top of a pass leading into the Westfjords, on a black gravel road that was under construction. We were driving on gravel roads for hours that day. I was surprised to find that we could do 80 KPH (49 MPH) on these roads, partly because of the 4WD we had been advised to rent.
Finally, we reached the Dynjandi falls when the sun was out. There are actually several waterfalls that follow the big one at the top. This is one of the small waterfalls below the main waterfall.
This is a view of the big one from a distance back. There's a person at the base of the falls, along the ridge, a little to the left of center. The person looks like a small grey bump because the falls are so huge. The waterfall is over three hundred feet high, so a person is pretty small in comparison.
The water is pure and beautiful close up.
Here's a view looking up at the falls from below. Of course, a tripod is needed for a photo like this so the water can flow while the shutter is open for one or two seconds. My camera was getting wet, as the air was full of the spray of so many falling streams colliding with one rocky shelf after another.
One of the most unusual parts of this day of travel is that we were driving on packed gravel roads. We were going into a remote part of the country that even most Icelanders never go to. So, the roads that go there aren't the greatest. They'll probably pave them in the next five to ten years, but they haven't gotten there yet. With a mid-sized four wheel drive SUV, we were able to drive on those roads at 40-45 MPH, which isn't that much below the national maximum speed limit of 55. To add a bit of humor, take a look at the view of our black SUV in the hotel parking lot when we arrived. I got a napkin and wiped off the license plate next time we drove it. As you can see, it was completely coated in mud.
That's all for the first leg of the trip.
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